surf's up
Monday, July 25, 2011
lovely and imperfect

 

Bud taught himself to surf when we moved to Santa Monica. He fell in love with it and I'd say it's become just about the best part of his day. Some mornings he is gone before the sun comes up, waiting in our VW bus at Malibu with a thermos of coffee for the first break of daylight. Before sunset you can sometimes see him walking down our street with his board, hoping to catch a few more waves before the day is over.

Not long ago he came across a small camera that discreetly attaches to his board and records his outings. It's been a lot of fun for me to watch these "dailies." Often they feature pods of dolphins, sometimes a few leopard sharks (pretty harmless, I'm told) and more than once, a curious sea lion that shadowed him a little too closely for his liking. But I think the most impressive video was when someone's board went hurling through the air and he caught it mid surf before it clobbered him, seamlessly tossed it back to the owner, and finished riding his wave. 

Smooth.

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